Jemma El Fna: 4:30am – 7:00am
June 12, 2009 by Adrian

The world is a dirtier, uglier, grittier altogether more sinister place in the wee small hours of the morning.  In my last post I commented that the Jemma El Fna, otherwise known as ‘Place of the Dead’, was quite definitely not a place of the dead – ‘there is nowhere livelier’.  Well – at night it lives up to it’s name.  

There was no death there, not visible anyway – but I could feel it. 

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It lingered in the shadows.  

It watched.

Had I jumped back to the time when this square was used for public executions? (Once the most dreaded place in the whole of Africa.)

I roamed back and forth across the square, quite unsettled.  A scooter zipping across the cobbles brought me back to the present.  

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The mess from the previous night’s ‘carnival’ blankets the ground….. but it is soon taken away.  With help from the street dogs and cats and no doubt a few rats.

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By 5:30 it is no longer a ghoulishly ghastly place.  It is resembling it’s modern day self.  Stalls are starting to get ready for the day, people make their way to work or home perhaps.

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There is a hint of a rush.  A whisper of the madness to come.  A taxi drives by.  A horse whinnies.  A gentle flutter of leaves in the mind. 

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A carriage driver sleeps in his carriage while doves keep watch.  The call to prayer sounds.  Across the Place, the great place of the dead, life stirs.

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